October 30 no climbing for the Kozins

Brrrr. It is cold outside! Early October snow cut off power last night!

For those of you reading who live in the bay area, I get back late Tuesday night. It would be great to meet up for a drink on Wednesday night to say hi and catch up. Location tbd.

October 28: lots of plane time and arrive Boston

I made it safe and sound to Boston. Had a great dinner with Simon, Julia, Alyssa, and Dave. We all went back to Alyssa and Dave's for some home made pumpkin pie. What a great welcome back to the states!
It's so cold here that Simon and I will probably change our plans a bit.
We do not love the idea of camping in the snow at the gunks. We had planned to head out Saturday and come back Monday. We will see what happens now.

Last day in turkey oct 27-my thoughts

I lay in bed unable to fall asleep on my last night here in Turkey. I have only 3 hours to sleep before I have to get up to catch my plane.
I am reflecting on my travels here in turkey and my trip as a whole.
I wonder: what have I learned about the world, about myself, and about my relationships with others?
Visiting Turkey has sparked increased interest in the geography and history in the area. The hagia Sofia and the blue mosque left lasting impressions. The views of Istanbul I would see daily from the ferry were breathtaking. The masses of people everywhere and the traffic causing constant noise were overwhelming, to say the least.
Daphne was a better tour guide than I could ever imagine.
I learned that my communication skills about what I want to do actually Need some help.
After taking the weekend trip to Munich I realize that cities with easy public transit are so much nicer than those without. Add some bike paths get me a bike and I am a very happy traveler. I feel free to roam.
Daphne and I talked about how traveling like this provides us with the opportunity to learn something new about ourselves. I agree! Meeting new people as you travel around, trying new foods is such a great way to adapt your views.
I think i will have a better sense of how this trip has affected me when I get back. I think sharing my stories and digesting my experiences on some much needed bike rides will help organize my thoughts.
I have yet to endure a long plane ride home. Hoping for some sleep along the way!
Thanks to all of you who have followed my first ever blog. I will likely continue to update as I keep exploring. I have loved getting comments from you along the way. I am curious to know how trips like these have changed any of your attitudes or mindsets.
Looking forward to catching up when I get back.
R

October 25, walking around town, yoga, and music

Daphne and I had a great day walking around Istanbul.  We had Kufte, turkish meatballs for lunch.  Then took the ferry to the European side.  In the photos below (when they get uploaded) you can see tons of boats waiting to cross the Bosforus to head into the Black sea.  I guess boats need to wait for a go ahead, so they just hang out near Istanbul.  See map below.

We enjoyed walking around town.  Then we headed to Yoga.  Good class, it was in English.  It was so cool to be able to do yoga in a such a busy city 6 flights up from all the traffic.

Daphne and I had some of the best food on the trip, Kebab wrapped in a large pita like wrap.  A turkish burrito of sorts.

It was amazing to see so many people out at night on a Tuesday.  There were so many outdoor restaurants.  Then we enjoyed listening to some great music at 5 floor bar.  Lots of people dancing!!!  Good fun!  Getting back to D's place was a breeze at 2 in the morning on the Dolmus (van bus- a colectivo type bus).  No traffic, phew!

thanks for reading...

R

October 24, Morning Munich by bike then fly to Istanbul

For those of you who don'tknow, I tend to be a heavy sleeper.  In the dorms at Davis, I continued sleeping through a fire alarm until my R.A. banged on the door yelling my name.  I tend to have to set two alarms because I can turn the first alarm off in my sleep without knowing.  Ivy's roommate has one of those cute inbread dogs that snores.  He and I shared the living room at Ivy's apt. while I was there.  It was funny everyonce in a while to wake up and hear snoring from a dog!  Lucky for me, I am a deep sleeper and it never bothered me.  Actually, I thought it was kind of cute.  No need to go pet the dog or anything (you know me), but I did like the thing (Otto).
Anyway, today started off with a quick breakfast with Ivy before she took off for work.  I rode her bike to return it at central station, Hauptbahnhof.  I spent a few hours at this station with Ellie in 1998 when we took a train through Germany to the Czech Republic.
I returned Chen's bike and zipped back on the U2 (subway to Ivy's place) to get my bike.
I had just enough time to explore the city by bike.  First I found the famous Hofbauhaus.  It was a bit too early for beire, so I just took a stroll around and snagged some coasters for a memento.
Then I headed to a nice outdoor market called Vicualienmarket.  After that I had just enough time to climb the endless staircase to the tower of St. Peter's chuch (ha, funny, Peter, that was your suggestion :)
It was well worth the climb to be ableto see amazing views of Munich. The tower I was on faced Marienplatz, Munich's town hall.  The pantomime conversation with the swiss man up there told me that if I waited 15 minutes, for the clock to strike 12 noon, I would get to hear music and see dancers.
I was glad he told me to check my watch because, instead of staying, I zipped over to the train station to return the bike, get my bags, and head to the airport with just the right timing to get to my flight.
I had a lovely time in Munich meeting new people, and exploring.  What a difference a nice subway and bike path system make!!!
I had a lovely flight to Istanbul.  I shared the row with a cute Turkish woman who really wanted to talk to me.  When Turkish failed her, she would continue speaking Turkish, then throw in one or two German words.  She prayed and rejoiced the moment the plane landed.  It reminded me of another little someone I know.
Turns out that there are many Turkish immigrants to Germany, so this was a busy flight.
The evening ended beautifully with a nice dinner at Daphne's uncle's house.  It was so nice to be able to get to know her family and have a home cooked Turkish meal.  Daphne had to work because she did the majority of the interpreting.
well folks, thanks for checking in!
R

Oct. 23. Biked to Dachau

Just a quick update here as it is bedtime. Ivy and I biked to Dachau to see the memorial for the concentration camp. It was sad and a good learning experience. After having visited the holocaust museums in L. A. And D.C., this site was rather tolerable.
I am scheduled to fly back to Istanbul tomorrow. I just heard about the earthquake in turkey so I will see if my flight will still go.
Thanks for the follow up emails and will update soon.

October 21-weekend trip to Germany

Hey folks,
My last minute trip to Germany was all but unplanned.  It turns out Ivy just got an apartment last week.  Daphne and I had plans to go to Van, we decided the trip would be too long for the amount of time that we had there. 
We had so many other options of places to go.  Konya was the top choice and I had to decide what to do.  Long story short, Ivy was on skype the moment Daphne and I were talking about our plans, and it turned out that she could host me.  So, I got a last minute ticket to Munich. 
I arrived and walked around until it was time to meet Ivy after work.  We went out for drinks with friends of friends of friends.  Lucky for me, everyone could speak Enlish.
Tomorrow we will explore Munich, and do some shopping for Ivy's apartment.  I am trying to figure out bike rental, of course, to be able to explore this area by bike.  Maybe I DO need a folding bike, or a breakaway type bike.
If any of you reading this blog have been to Munich, please send me your favorite places.
It is wonderful to have beer again.  Spain and Turkey have liquid that they like to call beer, but it really doesn't count.

October 20 hiking and eating

Daphne and I explored the valleys around our town Goreme. We realized today was going to be much warmer than yesterday after hiking up the hill a bit from our pension. We had to go back and change clothes leaving the 20 extra layers at home.
We had fun exploring the hills and the "fairy chimneys" finding fruit trees and grapes along the way.
We ended up taking a bus to Urgup and having a great lunch including 3 different mezze (small plates or tapa often served cold) at a restaurant recommended by Daphne's cousin.
Then we tried some wine made here in the valleys of Cappadocia. We like the cheap table wine the best; of course.
There was a long moment of indecision 2011-stay tuned for more about the result of the coin flip.
The baklava today was great but is still 3rd on the top ten list.
Dinner included Turkish pizza. Amazing! Then some Salep after dinner. I really am eating my way through Turkey.

October 19 tour around Cappadocia

We decided to spend our first day exploring the area with a guided tour. There were 12 of us in our van including people from Korea, Japan, Switzerland, and Malaysia.
This area is famous for many rock formations that have been converted into dwellings.
Our first main stop was at these underground cities that were used for hiding during war times. There were 8 different levels with various underground passages to get to the different rooms. The structures were interesting because they were engineered around the air shafts that spanned down to the bottom level.
Then we had a nice stroll through a canyon with a nice lunch at the end of our walk.
My favorite stop along the way was the Selime Cathedral. It was a large rock that had at one time been used for dwellings. I was like a kid in a candy shop climbing around exploring all the different areas and taking pictures of the beautiful views.
It was great to see so many cool sights and meet fun people on the tour. I do miss moving around on my own timeline.
Maybe tomorrow we will hike or rent bikes to continue exploring.
My phone is now cooperating better now that I could get online and sign out of Facebook. Thanks for that tip, Lo. I realized I hadn't done that yet.

On the top ten list for baklava today's restaurant see photo. Mmmm

10/18 first real day in Turkey

Daphne and I got up early to go enjoy the day in Istanbul.  It is unseasonably cold here so I made use of all my layers today.  We started with a Turkish breakfast including Borek and Turkish tea.  mmmm.
After our van ride to the Bosphorus then a ferry ride across to the European side of Istanbul, our first stop was the Aya Sofia.  http://www.hagiasophia.com/
  The Aya Sofia was formerly a church with many mosaics of Mary, baby Jesus, and the emperor(Justinian).  Then it was taken over and converted to a Mosque by Mehmet the conquerer.  It had a number of large arabic signs and paintings on the underside of the magnificent dome.  The architecture was notable for the large dome that felt almost like it was floating because of the way the structure was designed.
It was pretty cool to be in such an old building that was used originally for a church, then transitioned into a Mosque:  interesting juxtaposition.  D and I made friends from Kazakhstan because she strolled into a photo by mistake, and it turned out in the photo like they were posing together.  Turned out we started laughing about it, then talking.  Then we ended up purposefully posing in photos together.  Hah!

We explored the cistern which was used to provide water to the people in this area of the town.  Then Lunch:  eating in Turkey is so wonderful for us non pork loving folk because everything is made with beef or chicken.  No pork!!!
What a change from Spain (where they also have such good food)!
I had a great little chicken tomato dish wrapped in a filo dough.  Then later D and I had a baklava.  I may have to start rating the baklava.  Stay tuned for my baklava top ten list....
if my phone starts cooperating (no photos now b.c. phone is not staying charged long enough to take anywhere...).
okay, getting ready for flight to Cappadocia.
hasta luego,
R.

October 17, travel to Istanbul

My drinking water before bed worked!!!  I didn't oversleep and got up at 4:30 with enough time for a shower before heading to the Plaza Moyua to catch the bus to the Bilbo airport.
My i phone is acting funny and the battery is draining fast for no good reason, all wireless functions are off, it died before I had to get up.  Luckily my bladder helped wake me.

Anyway, it was a nice flight to Istanbul with a 3 hour layover in the Barcelona airport.  Daphne greeted me as I left "customs" and we hopped on the bus into town.  She lives on the asian side of Istanbul.  On the bus we met a gal who grew up in the bay area and now lives in San Diego.  She has half turkish and is visiting her family.  Funny small world.

Daphne and I walked around town and explored the grocery store: my favorite.  They have such a great selection of yogurt, it met my expectations.  I am also looking forward to trying many of the bakery like items.  Yum, this could be dangerous, glad I did a bike trip last week.

Getting ready to enjoy the day in Istanbul tomorrow and then fly to Cappadocia in the evening.  Back to the airport ...

Ya pues, nada, great trip so far.
Arielle

October 16th, last day in Spain

These last few days have been a whilrwind trying to fit in last minute hikes, pintxos, and tramites (errands). Ash, Kepa, and I woke up super early. We dropped off my luggage at the pension-hostel in Bilbao where I decided to spend the night and zipped off to Guernika to see the town.
Guernika is symbolic for being bombed by the Nazis during the time of the Spanish civil war. It was a tragedy and Picasso painted his piece in memory of the events that happened in Guernika.
Picasso´s painting is now at the Museo Reina Sofia in Madrid(corrected because it moved out of the Prado circa 2008). Today, we a copy of his painted work (same size) in clay and tile outdoors in the center of the town. I saw the painting in 1998 when I traveled with Ellie in Spain and it was very impactful. It was interesting to be able to go to the town of Guernika this time to be able to learn more about the history.
We attempted to go a cool looking painted forest and old cave, but we ran out of time.
I took the bus to Bilbao, met a yoga instructor who sat next to me on the bus, and chatted the whole way to Bilbao.
I enjoyed the quiet Sunday in Bilbao going to Museo de Bellas Artes, and the Guggenheim in Bilbao. I squeezed in a lot of art on my last day here.
I was impressed by the exhibit by sculptor, Serra, at the Guggenheim. I enjoyed free admission because it was some anniversary for the Guggenheim. I also really enjoyed some sculptures by E. Chillida at both museums. He had one miniatures sculpture in honor of Salvador Allende. I am intersted now to learn more about Chillida. Sadly, his museum in San Sebastian had to close.
My next steps include heading to bed in time to wake up at 4:30 am to make it to the bus station to get the the airport in time for my 7 a.m. flight. eeek! My cell phone is losing charge quick, who knows why, so I got myself a cheapo alarm clock at one of the only stores open on a Sunday night here in Bilbao. It was run by a Chino who spoke broken Spanish to me who spoke broken spanish. Good fun.
I am sad to have to say goodbye to Spàin! It was tough to despedir a Ashlyn and Kepa this morning. Now It will be interesting to leave a place where I can get by speaking the language to end up somewhere where I don´t understand a word.
Turkey (Istanbul), here I come.
until later,
Arielle
My next steps are to get up early

Oct 14: haircut, bike return, exploring french coastline

Got my hair chopped off today.
Then did some bike path (bidegorri) tourism to get to the place where I turn in my bike to ship it off to Pamplona.

Pictures below are of our travels to san jusn de luz and Bearitz.

Day 7: Roncesvalles to Pamplona 52 km

Up before the sun today as we got booted out of the beautifully renovated monastery/auberge. The ride down the hill was awesome with the wind in my face making my eyes tear and my fingers tips freeze.
It was pretty much all downhill to Pamplona where Ash turned in her rented bike and headed to San Sebastian. I grabbed a bus to Logrono to continue the Camino for a few days while exploring La Rioja.
Looking forward to a day of exploring tomorrow and seeing who I meet along my way. It feels like the time I have left in Spain is getting shorter so quickly. Hay que seguir hablando practicando de Hablar espanol po.

october 13, back to San Sebastian

Up early, had some tortilla and hot chocolate and explored Burgos by bike before taking my 10;30 bus back to San Sebastian. It was fun to ride up the hill to see the outside of the Castillo. More importantly was the wonderful view at daybreak. You could see the towers of the cathedral as the fog rolled out. Then I did a little bike path tourism and road all around town on the separated bikeways just to see where it would go. I tend to like a lot of the public art here in Spain. The bike path took me past a few pieces that I liked. Hopefully I can upload them here when all my photos are off my camera.
After the long busride home, Ashlyn happily greeted me as we chatted about our last few days while I unloaded everything from my bags outside her apt. door.
I was so happy to be back ¨home¨and not have to stay in another pilgrim alberge.
Time to do laundry, go for a walk, and figure out how to get the bike back to pamplona. How nice would it be to just snap the fingers. It would be easy to do tomorrow (i don´t want to ride another bus today) except for the bus worker strike. really? Well, at least if they are going to strike, I am happy that I know about it. That way it won´t mess with my plans.
Now my bike trip has formally come to an end, it is time to revisit the highlights.
Spain bike trip including some France and camino de santiago highlights:
1. biking into puente la reina on beautiful old roman bridge
2. camping in a park next to the monastery in puente de la reina
3. admiring the different architecture of the old roman churches in the towns at the beginning of the camino.
4. riding a small boat to get across the water before climbing jaiskibel
5. views of beautiful pastures at daybreak

Now I get to enjoy the rest of my time here in northern spain. I still have to squeeze in some time to get to Bilbao, see st. jean de Luz, and Bearitz.
Once again, thanks for reading. hugs to all!!!
rel

10-12 65 km to Burgos

When you stay at these pilgrim auberges you end up getting up before the sun rises.  It is such a nice time to be on the road.  The moon was full and the sky a royal blue this morning as I set on my way.  The beginning of the day had views of dry fields and the highway.  It was lovely, but not amazing.  I rode through some small towns and passed some walking peregrinos along the way.  Ricardo decided to leave around the same time as me this morning so I cycled a bit behind my biking buddy.  He would say his ¨hola¨to the pelgrinos we passed, and I would yell ¨buen camino¨ or ¨hasta luego¨as I scooted by. 
There is a lot of camaraderie on the camino de santiago and everyone wishes each other a ¨buen camino¨.   When people respond, you get an idea of where they are from based on the way they say buen camino.  There are ¨pilgrims¨ from all over the world.  I met people from korea, france, the netherlands, canada, germany:  the list goes on. 
English was sometimes the best way to communicate from everyone all over the world.
But, thanks to my bike buddy, the majority of the time I was in a spanish immersion camino de santiago as I tried to converse in spanish while guiding my weighted bike over unpaved paths.
It was sometimes challenging to stay on the camino with my non-knobby tires as the bike would ¨patina¨or skate in english.
Anyway, today was a tough day with 2 long climbs and one of them was in the early afternoon fully exposed to the sun.  Three or four times, I would have to get off the bike and push, I was so so tired, I felt like I was taking 1 step forward and 2 back.
Many people were very encouraging and the downhill was well worth the work.
I made it to Burgos just in time for a large lunch (spanish style around 3 pm).  After showering, I explored the beautiful cathedral, then relaxed.

day 8, or is it 9? Logroño to Redecilla del camino 60 km

I have just a bit before heading to enjoy my meal at the alberge tonight.  Ash left for San Sebastian yesterday and I continued on the Camino de Santiago.  Well, I skipped a bit by taking the bus to Logroño as I had already biked a large portion from Pamplona to Logronó at the beginning of the trip.
I stared this morning before the sun rose.  The views of wine country, La Rioja, were beautiful!  I will upload photos when I can.
I biked 20 kms on my own with great pistas (dirt paths).  I only had to get off my bike once to get over some rocky areas.
I would stop on my way and chat with some walkers.  I met a cute couple from the canary Islands, and another from France.  Then I found another biker (Ricardo) going my pace and we biked 40 kms together to redecilla del camino.   
I head to Burgos tomorrow before leaving the camino to head back to San Sebastian. 
Off to dinner now and to relax a bit.

¿Day ?? I may have lost count, day 7 roncesvalles to logrono bike and bus.

text written on phone but no wifi, will try to update this when i can.

Day 6: st. Jean pied du port to Roncesvalles 30 km 1000 meters

Text to come later enjoy the photos for now.
Eggs for breakfast
Registered as pelegrinos
Wavered on which road to take and decided on the highway
Met spaniards from the canary islands who had some tecnicAl difficulties. I gave my cintilla(zip tie) and my duct tape. they made it to Roncesvalles but pedals failed in the end.
We enjoyed the fixed price emu del pelegrino" and got back to the bunk in the auberge just in time for lights out. Tomorrow we get kicked out before 8 am. Eek. Buenas noches.

Day 5 Urrugne to St. Jean pied de port 70 kms

Lost my text. To fill in later

Had croissant for breakfast: evidence that I really am in France despite no formal border crossing. Ingrid and Jon, our warm showers hosts, lead us through the cutesy little basque towns. We took a walk through Sara, had coffee in Espelette, and cycled through Acain.
Then Ash and I cycled the rest of the day to st. Jean pied du port. What a cool town with a citadel and a cofounder for us right in the middle of town. We enjoyed the company of an Argentinian couple who we say next to at dinner. Finally I hear a Spanish accent that I can understand easily.
Today was a great day!!!

Day 4: San Sebastian to Urrugne, France 40 km

Slow start today too. This may be a trend. Ash and I biked out of town taking a short ferry boat ride to lovely Pasaia San Juan. I think it took us longer to get our bikes on the boat than the boat ride itself.

We cycled to the peak of Jaizkibel hill at ~450 meters with some passing rain showers and amazing views over the ocean. We finally arrived in Urrugne to our warm showers hosts. What a great couple! They had so many great stories about their recent bike trip in Vietnam including eating eggs that work cooked right when they were about to hatch. Mmm.
They took us out to amazing tapas in hondarribia and we went on a walking tour of the town.
Quick post from the phone...

Day 3 Camino: puente la reina to estrella

It gets light so late here so we got a slow start to the day. Our plan today was to get to logrono try some wine, take our bikes on the bus to Pamplona then ride towards Sumbilla. Next day we would go to our warm showers host across the border in France.

That all changed when we got took 1 hour to travel our first 4 kms on hilly gravel and carrying the bike over stairs. Eek. We made it to Estrella to tAke the bus from there. Overall a great day. See highlights below.

Highlights.
Carry bikes over steps
Took road then back to single track then back tracked back to the road.
Apple tree and walnuts
Estrella. Beautiful old chuch.
The best stop of the day was the water and wine taps just for peregrinos doing the Camino. See photos below.


New words:
Cuesta: inclinacion, or grade/hill

Day 3 first day of bike trip

Up early and on the bus to Pamplona to pick up our bikes. After getting all set putting on pedals, getting a bike computer we go get maps.
Our way out of town we follow the Camino de Santiago. As we head our own way following the trusty book we lead one pelegrino astray.

We continue on our path up and around hills checking the book with every turn we make. There are wind turbines getting the wind energy. Here it's called parque eolico. So pretty!

We ditched our book after tough gravel roads and headed back to the Camino.

Off to eat. Thanks for reading.

San Sebastian day 1

After a taking 3 planes and then a short bus ride from Bilbao, I finally arrive in sunny San Sebastian.
I actually feel a bit rested after napping on the bus.

My backpack exploded all over Kepa and Ashlyn's (Kepash) apartment then Ashles and I enjoyed a late lunch and headed to the beach.

At playa Zurriola there were some mellow waves and small number of people surfing. It looks like a good spot for beginners. It was not a nude beach at all, but there are some women who went topless and one guy bottomless.

Later, Ash and I met with Kepa and two of their friends for drinks and pinxos(tapas).

We ate some tortilla de bacalao(cod) and txipirones en su tinta (squid in their ink)-pictured.

Words learned today:
A Casco porro-a funny way to say "a lot". For ex. Esta lloviendo a casco porro
lio o follon- a mess the way we use the word clusterf*. For ex. Que foyon.

In basque country people speak another language called Euskera. Everyone speaks Spanish and a large number of people here also speak euskera. Simple words in Euskera are thrown into everyday language like "hi, bye, thanks....".
It will be interesting to try learning those words as I go.

Mañana I get to explore some more and find last minute things before leaving on our bike trip on the 5th.

San Sebastian Day 2

Holas!
My post from yesterday has not yet been uploaded because I can't get on wifi. So they will probably be in the wrong order.
Well, its not so bad to wake up in the middle of the night when you have a thriller book to read. Unfortunately, my watch is stuck on California time, and I was too out of it to figure out what time it was.
I ended up reading for 3 hours from 3 am to 6 am, then sleeping until 11. Oops. There went my morning.
(Sm)ash and I went for a walk along the water and through old town San Sebastian. We stopped by the local farmers market and bought some goods for lunch then strolled around the beach taking in the views. the water is unbelievably turquoise.
We worked through all the different possibilities of where we will go on our bike trip and made sure we had all the things we needed.
Then I walked around town a bit to explore. I stopped by the San Sebastian convention center (http://lembranzas-ines.blogspot.com/2011/09/chagall-en-la-sala-kubo-kutxa-de-san.html) to see a nice free Chagall exhibit before after getting lost in the grocery store. I love going to grocery stores in other countries. All the possibilities, getting ready for some chocolate covered digestives, yum!

At the beginning of our walk, we ran into a guy moving things out of a small storage space. Nosey me looked in and saw 3 tandem bikes hanging. I asked the guy and it turns out that it is a center for the blind. The bikes are used to take the vision impaired on bike rides (much like they do at BORP). I was hoping to join them for a ride while in town, but it looks like there are not any organized rides during the next two weeks.

Short story long, the same mover saw us on the way back from our long walk and said, "cago en diez, como os lo paseis?" Their was of saying holy crap, you went for a long walk or something like that. Instead of saying shitting on god, they say shitting on 10. The same as our holy crap/hot damn vs. holy shit.

Anyway, that is all I learned today...tomorrow: up early, off to pamplona to get our bicicletas.
photos to come.

Last day of packing.

It is just a natural law that there are too many things to do before leaving for a trip.  

My list included, order glasses, turn in receipts for flex spending...HA.  no way.
Its just having that deadline that I want to do so many things before I leave.

My bag is packed, and I have to get up in four hours.  I drank tons of water in the hopes that my bladder will help wake me up.

Looking forward to exploring.  I haven't been on a long flight for a very long time.

On a more interesting note:  I was able to enjoy some music at the Hardly Strictly Bluegrass show in golden gate park.  It was great to get out and relax a little after a busy week.  I was able to take a nap among thousands of people :).

Gillian Welsh does have one beautiful voice.

more to come soon.

Rel